Before you start an Australian rappel, it’s important to understand the basics of the procedure. Australian rappelling includes a series of steps, generally beginning with identifying an appropriate rappel route. Once determined, rappellers construct a secure anchor system at the top of the selected route. The anchor system typically involves a combination of natural and/or artificial anchors securely attached to the anchor point. Depending on the situation, it may also include the creation of a secondary anchor for redundancy.
After the anchor system is in place, rappellers set up their personal rappel devices, which typically consist of a rappel harness, a rappel device, and ropes. The rope is passed through the rappel device to control the descent, and the rappeller connects their harness to the rappel device. The rappel device acts as a friction brake, allowing the rappeller to control their speed during the descent. Before initiating the rappel, the rappeller takes a moment to check their equipment and ensure that everything is in order.
Next, the rappeller moves to the edge of the anchor point and positions themselves in a safe position for the rappel. They check the rope to ensure it is free of obstacles and can move smoothly through the rappel device. Once ready, they can initiate their rappel by leaning back and allowing themselves to descend slowly. The rappeller must maintain control of the rope at all times, using the rappel device to regulate their speed. They continue descending until they reach the desired level or the end of the rope. Once at the desired level or the end of the rope, the rappeller can stop their descent by locking off the rappel device.
The Basic Principles of Australian Rappel
Australian rappelling, also known as an Aussie rappel, is a technique used in rope access and climbing that involves sliding down a rope while maintaining control with a friction device. This method is particularly useful in situations where a smooth, controlled descent is required, such as when accessing hard-to-reach areas or descending steep terrain. The basic principles of Australian rappelling involve:
- Control: The friction device allows for precise control of the descent speed, ensuring a gradual and safe descent.
- Safety: Australian rappelling is designed to minimize the risk of uncontrolled falls by utilizing a backup safety system.
- Versatility: This technique can be adapted to various rope types and conditions, making it a versatile option for different rappel scenarios.
Understanding these principles is crucial for safely and effectively performing an Australian rappel. Proper training, equipment selection, and adherence to safety protocols are essential to ensure a successful and controlled descent.
Equipment Required for Australian Rappel
| Equipment | Description |
|---|---|
| Harness | Supports the body and distributes weight during the rappel. |
| Rope | Provides the support for the rappel and controls the descent. |
| Friction Device | Regulates the friction on the rope, allowing for controlled descent. |
| Descender | Attaches to the friction device and connects to the harness, enabling the rappeller to control the descent. |
| Backup Safety System | Prevents uncontrolled falls in case of primary system failure. |
Setting Up the Anchor Point
Choosing an anchor point is crucial for Australian rappelling. Select a strong and secure point, such as a large tree, rock formation, or purpose-built anchor. Ensure it can withstand the combined weight of the rappeller and gear.
Once you’ve chosen the anchor, set up the anchoring system. This typically involves using a webbing strap or chain to create a strong and stable connection between the anchor and the rope. Double-check the security of the anchor and anchoring system before proceeding.
Considerations for Anchor Point Selection:
| Factor | Importance |
|---|---|
| Strength | Ensures the anchor can withstand the load without failing. |
| Stability | Prevents the anchor from moving or shifting during use. |
| Accessibility | Allows for easy access to the anchor for setup and retrieval. |
| Type of Rock/Terrain | Soft rock or loose soil may require specialized anchors or techniques. |
| Anchor System | Should be compatible with the anchor and provide a secure connection. |
Constructing the Rope System
The rope system for Australian rappelling consists of the following components:
- Main rope: A dynamic climbing rope that is at least 60 meters long and 10.5 millimeters in diameter.
- Locking carabiner: A carabiner that locks automatically when closed, such as a Petzl Am’D or Black Diamond ATC-XP.
- Rappel device: A device that allows the user to control their descent, such as a Petzl GriGri or Black Diamond ATC-Guide.
- Prusik cord: A thin, auxiliary cord that is used to create a friction hitch to back up the rappel device.
- Tying cord: A short cord that is used to tie the rappeller into the system.
Construction
To construct the rope system, follow these steps:
1. Attach the locking carabiner to the main rope.
Pass the rope through the carabiner and tighten the gate.
2. Attach the rappel device to the carabiner.
Pass the rope through the rappel device and tighten the gate.
3. Create a friction hitch with the Prusik cord.
Wrap the Prusik cord around the main rope above the rappel device, making sure that the wraps are tight. Tie the ends of the Prusik cord together with a double fisherman’s knot. This hitch will provide a backup in case the rappel device fails.
4. Tie the tying cord to the rappeller’s harness.
Pass the tying cord through the tie-in points on the harness and tighten the knot.
5. Connect the locking carabiner to the tying cord.
Pass the tying cord through the locking carabiner and tighten the gate.
The rope system is now ready to use.
Controlling the Descent
Once the rope is set up and you’re ready to begin your descent, it’s important to have a good understanding of how to control the speed at which you descend.
Use Your Brake Hand: The primary method of controlling your descent is to use your brake hand. By applying more or less pressure to the brake rope, you can adjust the friction between the rope and the carabiner on your descender, which in turn affects your speed.
Body Position: Your body position also plays a role in controlling your descent. If you lean your body back, you’ll reduce friction and increase your speed. Conversely, if you lean your body forward, you’ll increase friction and slow down.
Footwork: In addition to using your hands and body position, you can also use your feet to assist in controlling your descent. By placing your feet against the cliff face, you can help to stabilize yourself and slow down your descent.
Friction Hitch: If you need to stop your descent quickly, you can use a friction hitch to create additional friction on the rope. The following table provides a summary of the different ways to control your descent:
| Technique | Effect |
|---|---|
| Apply more pressure to brake hand | Increase friction, slow down |
| Apply less pressure to brake hand | Decrease friction, speed up |
| Lean body back | Decrease friction, speed up |
| Lean body forward | Increase friction, slow down |
| Place feet against cliff face | Increase friction, slow down |
| Use a friction hitch | Create additional friction, stop quickly |
Releasing the Rope from the Anchor
To release the rope from the anchor, follow these steps:
1. Check the Rope
Inspect the rope for any damage or wear. If there is any, do not use the rope.
2. Find the Rope End
Locate the end of the rope attached to the anchor.
3. Pull the Tail
Grasp the tail of the rope (the end opposite the knot) and pull it gently.
4. Loosen the Rope
As you pull the tail, the knot will begin to loosen. Continue pulling until the knot is completely untied.
5. Remove the Prusik
If you used a Prusik to ascend the rope, untie it now.
6. Lower the Rope
Slowly lower the rope towards the ground by guiding it through your device.
7. Secure the Rope
Once the rope is fully lowered, secure it to prevent it from falling. You can tie it off to a tree or other anchor point, or simply coil it up and place it in a safe location.
| Step | Action |
|—|—|
| 1 | Check the rope for damage. |
| 2 | Find the rope end attached to the anchor. |
| 3 | Pull the tail of the rope gently. |
| 4 | Continue pulling the tail until the knot is completely untied. |
| 5 | Untie the Prusik if used. |
| 6 | Slowly lower the rope towards the ground. |
| 7 | Secure the rope to prevent it from falling. |
Dismantling the Rappel System
Once you have reached the bottom of your rappel, it is important to dismantle the system safely and efficiently. Follow these steps to ensure a smooth dismantling process:
8. Dismantling the Belay Device
Carefully remove the belay device from the rope and ensure that both strands of the rope are free. It is important to maintain control of both strands throughout the dismantling process to prevent tangles or accidents.
Untie the safety knot (e.g., figure-eight knot) that was attached to the rappel device.
Inspect the belay device and rope for any damage or wear. If any damage is found, it is important to replace the affected components before your next rappel.
Coil the rope neatly to avoid tangles and prevent damage to the fibers.
Secure the coiled rope in a suitable bag or harness for easy transportation and storage.
Dispose of any discarded gear or trash responsibly to maintain the cleanliness and safety of the rappelling area.
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Remove belay device from rope |
| 2 | Untie safety knot |
| 3 | Inspect belay device and rope |
| 4 | Coil rope neatly |
| 5 | Secure coiled rope |
| 6 | Dispose of trash |
Considerations for Safety
Before attempting an Australian rappel, it is essential to prioritize safety by considering the following:
1. Wear a Helmet
Protect your head by wearing a well-fitting helmet.
2. Choose the Right Equipment
Use a certified rappel rope, harness, and belay device specifically designed for rappelling.
3. Inspect Your Equipment
Thoroughly examine all equipment for any signs of damage or wear before using it.
4. Tie Off Your Harness
Securely tie off your harness to a solid anchor point using a clove hitch or figure-eight knot.
5. Check Your Anchor
Ensure that the anchor point you are using is stable and capable of supporting your weight.
6. Control Your Descent
Use a controlled descent technique by gradually releasing rope with your belay device.
7. Maintain Three Points of Contact
At all times, keep three points of contact with the rock face (two hands and one foot, or vice versa).
8. Communicate with Your Partner
Establish clear communication signals with your rappel partner to coordinate the descent.
9. Landing Zone Preparation
Choose a designated landing zone that is clear of obstacles and provides a safe area for you to land. This zone should be at least two rope lengths away from the base of the cliff. Additionally, consider the following factors:
| Factor | Considerations |
|---|---|
| Runout | Ensure that there is sufficient rope available to reach the intended landing zone without running out. |
| Loose Rocks | Remove or secure any loose rocks in the landing area to minimize potential hazards. |
| Other Climbers | Communicate with other climbers in the area to avoid any potential conflicts or cross-overs in landing zones. |
| Landing Position | Prepare your landing stance by bending your knees and feet and absorbing the impact with your legs. |
