Deciphering a sewing pattern can be an intimidating task for aspiring seamsters and seamstresses. However, with a methodical approach and a basic understanding of the components, unraveling the secrets of a pattern becomes a manageable endeavor. This comprehensive guide will empower you with the knowledge to navigate the intricacies of a sewing pattern, enabling you to embark on your creative journey with confidence.
Before delving into the details, it is crucial to recognize the essential elements of a sewing pattern. Typically, a pattern comprises several sheets of tissue paper printed with a myriad of lines, symbols, and annotations. These elements collectively convey the shape, dimensions, and construction details of the garment you intend to create. Understanding the purpose and significance of each component is paramount to deciphering the pattern accurately.
To begin your exploration, identify the pattern pieces. These individual pieces represent the different components of the garment, such as the bodice, sleeves, collar, and skirt. Each piece is labeled with a unique identifier, typically a letter or number, corresponding to the assembly instructions provided in the pattern guide. Additionally, pattern pieces often feature notches or other markings that facilitate alignment during construction. By becoming familiar with the pattern pieces and their designated labels, you can lay the groundwork for seamless assembly.
Understanding the Anatomy of a Pattern
Before you begin sewing, it’s crucial to grasp the layout and terminology of a sewing pattern. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the key components:
Pattern Envelope
• **Envelope Front:** Displays the pattern number, size range, garment type, fabric suggestions, and finished garment measurements.
• **Envelope Back:** Provides instructions for choosing the correct size, fabric layout plans, and seam allowances.
• **Instructions Sheet:** Contains step-by-step sewing instructions with illustrations or diagrams.
• **Pattern Tissue:** The actual pattern pieces, printed on thin paper. They are usually labeled with the garment piece name and the pattern size.
Pattern Pieces
• **Bodice Front:** Covers the chest and stomach area.
• **Bodice Back:** Covers the back and shoulder area.
• **Skirt Front:** Covers the front of the legs.
• **Skirt Back:** Covers the back of the legs.
• **Sleeve:** Covers the arm.
• **Collar:** Frames the neckline.
• **Cuff:** Finishes the end of a sleeve or leg.
• **Grain Line:** Indicates the direction of the fabric’s weave, connecting points on the pattern that should align parallel to the selvedge of the fabric.
• **Notches:** Small triangles or squares printed on the edges of pattern pieces that match up when sewing.
• **Darts:** Triangular folds or pleats in a pattern piece that remove excess fabric and shape the garment.
• **Buttonholes:** Openings in a pattern piece for attaching buttons.
• **Button Marks:** Symbols or indicators on the pattern piece showing where buttons should be placed.
• **Interfacing:** Small pieces of fabric used to reinforce certain areas of a garment, such as buttonholes or a neckline.
Deciphering Pattern Symbols and Markings
Pattern symbols and markings are a visual language used to convey important information about the garment’s design and construction. By understanding these symbols, you can accurately cut and sew the fabric to create the desired result:
- Grainlines: Parallel lines indicate the direction of the fabric’s grain. This is important for ensuring the fabric drapes and hangs properly.
- Seam allowances: The space between the seam line and the edge of the fabric that is folded and sewn. It is usually represented by a line parallel to the seam line.
- Notches: Small triangles or squares that indicate where two fabric pieces should be aligned for sewing.
Table of Common Pattern Symbols
| Symbol | Meaning |
|---|---|
 |
Notch |
 |
Dart point |
 |
Grainline |
 |
Buttonhole placement |
Identifying Different Pattern Pieces
Sewing patterns consist of a variety of pieces, each serving a specific purpose in the creation of the garment. Understanding these pieces is crucial for accurate assembly.
Pattern Envelope
The pattern envelope contains detailed information about the pattern, including the style, fabric requirements, sizing, and instructions for assembly.
Pattern Instructions
These are step-by-step instructions that guide you through the sewing process, including cutting, fabric preparation, and construction techniques.
Pattern Pieces
Pattern pieces are the individual templates for cutting the fabric. Each piece represents a specific part of the garment, such as the bodice, sleeve, or collar.
| Type of Pattern Piece | Description |
|---|---|
| Body Pieces | These include the front and back bodice, skirt, and pants. They define the main shape of the garment. |
| Sleeves | Sleeve pieces include the upper sleeve, lower sleeve, and cuff. They provide coverage and shape for the arms. |
| Collars and Cuffs | These pieces enhance the neckline and sleeve edges, adding style and detail to the garment. |
| Pockets | Pockets provide storage and functionality to the garment, and come in various shapes and sizes. |
| Interfacing | This material provides stability and support to certain garment areas, such as buttonholes or collars. |
Each pattern piece is typically labeled with its name, a unique number, and sometimes a size or measurement. Notches and marks on the pieces align with each other during assembly to ensure proper fit and construction.
Sewing Seam Allowances
Seam allowances are the extra fabric that is added to the edges of fabric pieces when sewing them together. They provide a margin of error for imprecise cutting or sewing, and they also help to prevent fraying. The standard seam allowance for most sewing projects is 5/8 inch (1.5 cm), but it can vary depending on the type of fabric, the project, and the desired finished look.
Choosing the Right Seam Allowance
The type of fabric you are using will determine the best seam allowance to use. Lightweight fabrics, such as silk and chiffon, require a smaller seam allowance (1/4 inch or less) to prevent the fabric from puckering. Heavier fabrics, such as denim and canvas, can handle a larger seam allowance (1 inch or more) without becoming bulky.
The purpose of the project will also affect the choice of seam allowance. For example, a garment that will be washed and dried frequently may require a larger seam allowance to prevent the seams from fraying. A decorative item, such as a pillow or quilt, may be able to get away with a smaller seam allowance.
How to Measure a Seam Allowance
To measure a seam allowance, use a ruler or measuring tape to measure from the cut edge of the fabric to the stitching line. The measurement should be taken perpendicular to the stitching line.
Table of Standard Seam Allowances
| Fabric Type | Seam Allowance |
|—|—|
| Lightweight (silk, chiffon) | 1/4″ – 1/2″ |
| Medium-weight (cotton, linen) | 5/8″ |
| Heavyweight (denim, canvas) | 1″ – 1 1/2″ |
Tips for Sewing with Seam Allowances
- Always press your seam allowances open before sewing them together. This will help to reduce bulk and prevent the seams from puckering.
- Use a sewing machine foot with a guide to help you sew a consistent seam allowance.
- If you are unsure of the correct seam allowance to use, err on the side of caution and use a larger seam allowance. It is easier to trim down a seam allowance than it is to add more fabric.
Preparing Interfacings and Linings
Preparing Fusible Interfacings:
1. Decide which areas of the pattern require interfacing.
2. Cut out the interfacing pieces to the specified size.
3. Position the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric according to the pattern instructions.
4. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for fusing the interfacing to the fabric.
Applying Non-Fusible Interfacings:
1. Baste the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric using large stitches.
2. Stitch around the edges of the interfacing using a narrow stitch width.
3. Remove the basting stitches.
Preparing Linings:
1. Cut out the lining pieces to the specified size.
2. If the lining is made of a woven fabric, stay-stitch the neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.
3. Finish the edges of the lining using a seam finish such as a serger or zigzag stitch.
Assembling the Garment with Interfacings and Linings:
1. Insert the interfaced pieces into the garment as specified by the pattern instructions.
2. Pin and sew the lining to the garment along the neckline, armholes, and side seams.
3. Press the seams and finish the edges using a seam finish.
Troubleshooting Interfacing and Lining Issues:
| Issue | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Wrinkles in the interfacing | Interfacing not correctly fused | Refuse the interfacing following manufacturer’s instructions |
| Interfacing visible on the right side of the fabric | Interfacing piece too large | Trim the interfacing to the correct size |
| Lining too loose or too tight | Incorrect seam allowances | Adjust the seam allowances according to the pattern instructions |
Understanding Garment Construction Techniques
Garment construction techniques encompass the various methods and techniques used to assemble a garment. Understanding these techniques is crucial for pattern sewing as it allows you to visualize the final product and accurately interpret the pattern instructions.
Seams
- Plain seam: A simple seam that joins two fabric pieces face-to-face, with the raw edges enclosed.
- French seam: A more durable seam that creates a neat, enclosed finish by sewing the raw edges together first and then enclosing them in a second seam.
- Bound seam: A seam where a strip of fabric (bias tape) is used to enclose the raw edges.
Closures
- Buttons and buttonholes: This classic closure involves sewing buttons to the fabric and creating buttonholes for them to fasten through.
- Zippers: Zippers provide a more secure and concealed closure and come in various types, such as regular, invisible, and lapped.
- Hooks and eyes: These small metal or plastic fasteners are used for lightweight or decorative closures.
Pockets
- Patch pocket: A simple pocket that is sewn onto the fabric surface.
- Welt pocket: A more sophisticated pocket that is inserted into an opening cut into the fabric.
- Zipper pocket: A practical pocket that conceals the raw edges inside a zipper.
Collars
- Peter Pan collar: A flat, rounded collar with pointed corners.
- Stand collar: A tall, upright collar that stands away from the neck.
- Notch collar: A collar with a V-shaped notch in the front.
Sleeves
- Set-in sleeve: A sleeve that is inserted into an armhole and sewn around the shoulder and underarm.
- Raglan sleeve: A sleeve that extends from the neckline to the armhole, creating a diagonal seam.
- Bishop sleeve: A loose, full sleeve that gathers at the wrist.
Body Construction
- Bodice: The upper part of the garment, covering the torso.
- Skirt: The lower part of the garment, extending from the waist to the hem.
- Pants: A two-legged garment that covers the legs and hips.
Fitting and Adjusting Patterns
Fitting and adjusting patterns are crucial steps in sewing, ensuring that garments fit perfectly and flatter the wearer’s body shape. Here are some essential tips for fitting and adjusting patterns:
Measuring and Comparing
Begin by measuring yourself accurately and comparing your measurements to the pattern’s sizing chart. This will help you determine which size to use as a starting point.
Muslin Mock-Ups
Create a muslin mock-up, a temporary garment made from inexpensive fabric, to test the fit of the pattern. This allows you to make adjustments before cutting into your actual fabric.
Pinning and Adjusting
Pin the muslin mock-up onto your body and use a mirror to assess the fit. Mark any areas that need to be adjusted, such as the neckline, waist, or sleeves.
Common Adjustments
| Adjustment | Explanation |
|---|---|
| Shortening or Lengthening | Adjusting the pattern’s length at the hem, neckline, or sleeves to achieve the desired fit. |
| Widening or Narrowing | Altering the pattern’s width at the bust, waist, or hips to accommodate body shape or size. |
| Adding Darts or Tucks | Inserting fabric folds or darts to create shape and improve fit in areas such as the bust or shoulders. |
FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)
This technique adjusts the pattern to accommodate a larger bust size without altering the fit in other areas. It involves transferring bust dart volume to the side seams or shoulder.
SBA (Small Bust Adjustment)
Similar to FBA, SBA adjusts the pattern for a smaller bust size by reducing bust dart volume and redistributing it to the side seams or neckline.
Curving Darts
Modifying darts to curve instead of being straight can create a more flattering fit, especially in areas such as the waist or bust.
Pivot and Slide
This technique allows you to adjust the length or width of a pattern piece while maintaining the shape. It involves pivoting one point and sliding another along a curve.
Troubleshooting Common Sewing Issues
Even the most experienced sewers encounter problems from time to time. Here are some tips for troubleshooting common sewing issues:
1. Tension Problems
Uneven or loose stitches often indicate tension issues. Adjust the tension on both the upper and lower threads, making sure they are balanced.
2. Broken Needles
Broken needles can be caused by using the wrong needle for the fabric or sewing too quickly. Check the needle size and switch to a sharper or stronger needle if necessary.
3. Puckering or Gathering
Puckered or gathered seams occur when the fabric is not fed evenly through the machine. Adjust the presser foot pressure and check the thread tension.
4. Skipped Stitches
Skipped stitches happen when the needle fails to catch the upper or lower thread. Check the threading, rethread the machine, and make sure the bobbin is full.
5. Thread Breakage
Thread breakage can be caused by sharp edges on the machine, poor winding, or using thread that is too old or weak.
6. Fabric Jams
Fabric jams happen when the fabric gets stuck in the machine. Clear any threads or debris from the bobbin area and adjust the presser foot pressure.
7. Seam Ripping
Seams sometimes rip due to weak stitches or excessive tension. Adjust the tension settings and ensure the fabric is securely fastened before sewing.
8. Fabric Bunching
Bunching fabric occurs when the machine pulls the fabric unevenly. Adjust the presser foot pressure and experiment with different needle sizes.
9. Advanced Troubleshooting
For more complex sewing issues, consider the following steps:
- Check the machine’s manual for specific troubleshooting advice.
- Join sewing forums or online communities for support and advice from other sewers.
- Consult with an experienced seamstress or tailor for professional assistance.
- Perform regular maintenance on the machine, including cleaning and lubrication.
- Experiment with different settings, needles, and thread types to find the optimal combination for the fabric and project.
Finishing Touches
Once you’ve sewn the garment together, it’s time to add the finishing touches. This can include hemming, pressing, and topstitching.
1. Hemming: Hemming is the process of finishing the raw edges of fabric. There are many different types of hems, so choose the one that best suits the fabric and style of the garment.
2. Pressing: Pressing is the process of using a hot iron to smooth out wrinkles and set seams. Pressing can also be used to shape fabric and create pleats or gathers.
3. Topstitching: Topstitching is a type of stitching that is used to reinforce seams or add decorative detail. Topstitching can be done by hand or by machine.
Embellishments
Embellishments can be added to a garment to add personality or style. Some common embellishments include:
1. Buttons: Buttons can be used to fasten garments, but they can also be used as embellishments. Buttons come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors, so you can find the perfect ones to match your garment.
2. Lace: Lace is a delicate fabric that can be used to add a touch of femininity or elegance to a garment. Lace can be used to trim necklines, sleeves, or hems.
3. Embroidery: Embroidery is the process of stitching designs into fabric. Embroidery can be done by hand or by machine, and it can be used to create a variety of looks, from simple to elaborate.
4. Appliqué: Appliqué is the process of attaching pieces of fabric to another piece of fabric. Appliqué can be used to create a variety of designs, from simple shapes to complex scenes.
5. Trim: Trim is a narrow strip of fabric that can be used to add a decorative touch to a garment. Trim can be made from a variety of materials, including lace, ribbon, and cording.
6. Beads: Beads can be used to add a touch of sparkle or glamour to a garment. Beads can be sewn on by hand or by machine, and they can be used to create a variety of designs.
7. Sequins: Sequins are small, shiny discs that can be used to add a touch of glamour or sparkle to a garment. Sequins can be sewn on by hand or by machine, and they can be used to create a variety of designs.
8. Crystals: Crystals are a type of bead that is made from glass. Crystals come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they can be used to add a touch of elegance or glamour to a garment. Crystals can be sewn on by hand or by machine, and they can be used to create a variety of designs.
9. Feathers: Feathers can be used to add a touch of drama or whimsy to a garment. Feathers can be sewn on by hand or by machine, and they can be used to create a variety of designs.
10. Fur: Fur can be used to add a touch of luxury or warmth to a garment. Fur can be sewn on by hand or by machine, and it can be used to create a variety of designs.
| Embellishment | Description |
|:—|:—|
| Button | A small, round object that is sewn onto clothing for decoration or to fasten it. |
| Lace | A delicate fabric with a net-like appearance. |
| Embroidery | The art of sewing designs into fabric. |
| Appliqué | A technique for attaching pieces of fabric to another piece of fabric. |
| Trim | A narrow strip of fabric that is used to add a decorative touch to clothing. |
| Bead | A small, round object that is made from glass, metal, or plastic and is used for decoration. |
| Sequin | A small, shiny disc that is made from metal or plastic and is used for decoration. |
| Crystal | A type of bead that is made from glass and is cut into a variety of shapes. |
| Feather | A light, fluffy covering that is found on birds. |
| Fur | The soft, warm hair of an animal. |
How To Read A Pattern Sewing
A sewing pattern is a guide that provides instructions and diagrams for making a specific garment. It includes information on the size and shape of the garment, as well as the materials and tools needed. Patterns can be found in sewing magazines, online, and in fabric stores. Understanding how to read and use a sewing pattern is essential for successful sewing projects.
To read a sewing pattern, you will need a ruler or measuring tape, a pencil or fabric marker, and scissors. The pattern will include a series of lines and symbols that indicate the size and shape of the garment, as well as the location of the seams, darts, and other details. The lines are typically labeled with numbers or letters, and the symbols are explained in a key on the pattern envelope.
To start reading the pattern, lay it out on a flat surface and identify the size line that corresponds to your body measurements. Then, follow the lines and symbols to create the individual pattern pieces. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer them to fabric. Be sure to follow the instructions on the pattern envelope for the correct way to cut and sew the fabric.
Reading a sewing pattern can seem daunting at first, but with practice, it becomes easier. By taking the time to understand the lines and symbols, you can create beautiful and well-fitting garments.
People Also Ask About How To Read A Pattern Sewing
Where can I find sewing patterns?
Sewing patterns can be found in sewing magazines, online, fabric magazines and in fabric stores.
What is the difference between a sewing pattern and a sewing instruction?
A sewing pattern is a guide that provides instructions and diagrams for making a specific garment, while sewing instructions are step-by-step guides that explain how to sew a garment.
How do I know what size pattern to choose?
To choose the right size pattern, you will need to take your body measurements and compare them to the size chart on the pattern envelope.
