Shortening a dress can be a daunting task, but with the right instructions, it can be a breeze. Whether you’re a seasoned seamstress or a complete beginner, this guide will provide you with the step-by-step instructions and tips you need to achieve a flawless result. In this article, we’ll cover everything from choosing the right tools and fabric to handling different types of hems and finishes.
Before you begin, it’s important to gather a few essential tools. These include a measuring tape, a seam ripper, sharp scissors, a sewing machine (or needle and thread if you prefer hand-sewing), and an iron. You’ll also need to choose a suitable fabric for the hem. For most dresses, a lightweight woven fabric such as cotton or linen is a good option. However, if your dress is made of a delicate fabric such as silk or lace, you may need to use a special hem tape or invisible thread.
Now that you have your tools and materials, let’s get started! First, determine how much you want to shorten the dress. Measure from the desired length to the bottom of the hem and mark the spot with a pin. Then, carefully unpick the hem, and press it flat. Fold the hem up to the desired length, and press it again. Finally, sew the hem in place using a blind stitch or a machine stitch. With a little care and attention, you’ll be able to shorten your dress in no time.
Measuring and Pinning the Excess Fabric
1. **Examine the dress and determine the desired hem length.** Consider the style of the dress, your personal preferences, and the occasion you will be wearing it for. Measure from the desired hemline up to the waist or bodice of the dress.
2. **Mark the excess fabric with pins.** Place a pin perpendicular to the hemline, at the point where you want to shorten the dress. Continue pinning along the entire hemline, making sure the pins are evenly spaced and parallel to each other.
3. **Measure the distance between the pins and the hemline.** This will give you the amount of fabric you need to remove.
4. **Remove the excess fabric.** Use sharp scissors to cut along the pinned line, making sure to hold the scissors perpendicular to the fabric. Be careful not to cut too close to the pins, as this could weaken the fabric.
5. **Press the new hemline.** Use a warm iron and a pressing cloth to press the new hemline flat. This will help to set the stitches and give the hem a professional finish.
Cutting the Excess Length
Before cutting the excess length, ensure your dress is inside out and laid on a flat surface.
Gently pull the hem of your dress until it reaches your desired length. Use a ruler or measuring tape to ensure accuracy. Remember to allow for a small hem allowance of 1-2 inches.
Using sharp scissors, carefully cut off any excess fabric that extends beyond your desired length. Cut along the straight grain of the fabric to prevent fraying. For added precision, you can use a seam ripper to remove any excess threads or overlock stitching.
Once the excess length is removed, inspect the hem to ensure it is even and smooth. Trim any uneven edges or loose threads to create a clean and polished finish.
Here’s a table summarizing key steps:
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Wear the dress inside out and mark the desired length. |
| 2 | Lay the dress flat and cut off the excess fabric along the straight grain. |
| 3 | Trim the hem to ensure it is even and smooth. |
Hemming the New Shorter Length
Once you have cut the excess fabric from the hem, it’s time to hem the new shorter length. There are many different ways to hem a dress, but the most common method is to use a blind hem stitch. This stitch is invisible from the right side of the fabric, giving your dress a clean and professional finish.
To hem a dress with a blind hem stitch, you will need a sewing machine with a blind hem foot, blind hem needles, and thread.
- Start by folding the raw edge of the fabric up by 1/4 inch and pressing it with an iron.
- Fold the fabric up again by 1/4 inch and press it again.
- Attach the blind hem foot to your sewing machine and insert the blind hem needles into the machine.
- Set the stitch length to 2-3 mm and start sewing along the folded edge of the fabric.
- The blind hem foot will automatically fold the fabric under as it sews, creating a blind hem stitch that is invisible from the right side of the fabric.
Once you have hemmed the entire dress, press the hem with an iron to set it in place.
Trouble Shooting Blind Hemming
Blind hemming can be a bit tricky, and there are a few things that can go wrong. Here are a few tips for troubleshooting blind hem problems:
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| The stitches are visible from the right side of the fabric | Adjust the stitch length or the tension on the machine. |
| The fabric is puckering | Use a lighter weight thread or adjust the tension on the machine. |
| The hem is not lying flat | Press the hem with an iron or use a blind hem foot with a wider opening. |
Using a Store-Bought Hem Iron-On Tape
Store-bought hem iron-on tape is a quick and easy way to shorten a dress without sewing. It is available in a variety of widths and colors to match your dress fabric. To use hem iron-on tape, follow these steps:
- Measure the desired length of your dress and mark it with a pin or chalk.
- Cut off the excess fabric at the marked length.
- Fold up the hem of the dress to the desired width and press it with an iron to create a crease.
- Apply the hem iron-on tape to the inside of the hem. Make sure the tape is evenly distributed and covers the entire width of the hem. Do not overlap the tape.
Tips for Using Hem Iron-On Tape
It is important to follow the instructions on the package of the hem iron-on tape. Different tapes require different temperatures and application times. To avoid damaging the fabric of your dress, it is also recommended to test the tape on a small scrap of fabric first.
Here are some additional tips for using hem iron-on tape:
- Use a pressing cloth or towel over the hem when ironing to protect the fabric.
- Allow the hem to cool completely before wearing the dress.
- If the hem starts to peel, you can re-iron it by following the steps above.
- Press the hem with a hot iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Hold the iron in place for the recommended amount of time to ensure that the tape adheres properly.
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Quick and easy to use | Not as durable as sewing |
| No sewing required | May not be suitable for all fabrics |
| Affordable | Can be visible on some fabrics |
Creating a Fold-Over Hem
This method is ideal for dresses with a straight or slightly A-line silhouette. It creates a clean, hemmed look without any visible stitches.
Materials needed:
– Measuring tape or ruler
– Fabric scissors
– Iron and ironing board
– Needle and thread (optional)
Step 1: Measure and Mark the Desired Hem Length
Wear the dress and mark the desired hem length with pins or chalk. Remove the dress and measure the distance from the raw edge to the marked point.
Step 2: Fold Up the Hem
Fold up the raw edge of the dress by 1/4 inch (6 mm) twice, creating a double fold. Use a warm iron to press the fold in place.
Step 3: Stitch the Hem
Position the needle 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the outer edge of the folded hem. Stitch the hem in place using a small, blind stitch. Alternatively, you can use a sewing machine with a blind hem stitch.
Step 4: Reinforce the Stitch (Optional)
For added durability, fold the hem up once more by 1/4 inch (6 mm) and press it. Stitch the reinforced hem in place using a stronger stitch or a sewing machine with a zigzag stitch.
Step 5: Remove Excess Fabric and Finish
Trim any excess fabric beyond the stitched hem. If necessary, you can hand-sew the excess fabric into the seam allowance to prevent fraying. Finally, iron the hem to create a professional-looking finish.
Utilizing a Serger for a Rolled Hem
A serger, also known as an overlock machine, is a specialized sewing machine that creates a finished and professional-looking rolled hem in a single step. This method is particularly suitable for lightweight and delicate fabrics, such as chiffon, georgette, and lace. Here are the detailed steps on how to use a serger for a rolled hem:
1. Thread the Serger
Thread the serger with two needles and two loopers, using compatible thread for both the fabric and the hem. Ensure that the thread tension is correct for the fabric.
2. Adjust the Serger Settings
Adjust the stitch length and differential feed settings to achieve the desired rolled hem width and stretch. A narrower stitch length and a lower differential feed will create a tighter rolled hem, while a longer stitch length and a higher differential feed will result in a looser hem.
3. Prepare the Dress
Mark the desired new length on the dress and trim off any excess fabric. Fold the raw edge of the dress up by about 1/4 inch and press it.
4. Guide the Fabric
With the folded edge facing up, guide the fabric under the presser foot and into the serger. Start sewing at a slow speed to ensure a neat and even stitch.
5. Trim the Excess
As you sew, the serger will automatically trim the excess fabric to create the rolled hem. Check the hem regularly to ensure that it is even and secure.
6. Finishing Touches
Once the hem is complete, press it with a warm iron to set the stitch and give it a professional finish. You can also use a small amount of clear glue or fabric adhesive to secure the ends of the hem for added durability.
Trying the Stitch and Flips Technique
This method is ideal for shortening wrap dresses, as it allows you to adjust the length of the dress without altering the fit of the bodice. To do this:
- Try on the dress and mark the desired length with a pin or chalk.
- Remove the dress and lay it flat on a table.
- Fold up the hem by about 1 inch and press it with an iron.
- Turn the dress over and fold up the hem again by 1 inch, making sure that it aligns with the first fold.
- Stitch the hem in place using a small, invisible stitch.
- Turn the dress right side out and wear it. The hem will now be flipped up, creating a shorter length.
Additional Tips
For a more professional-looking finish, you can use a blind stitch to sew the hem. To do this, you will need a blind stitch needle and thread, which are available at most sewing stores.
If your dress has a lining, you will need to shorten the lining as well. To do this, follow the same steps as above, but be sure to fold the lining up by the same amount as the outer fabric.
If you are not sure how to sew, you can take your dress to a tailor to have it shortened professionally.
Employing the Blind Hem Method
The blind hem method is a popular technique for shortening hemlines without leaving visible stitches on the right side of the fabric. Here’s a more detailed guide to this method:
Materials you’ll need:
| Item | Description |
|---|---|
| Needle | A regular sewing needle with a small eye |
| Thread | Matching the fabric color and weight |
| Sewing machine | With a zigzag or blind hem stitch |
| Hem gauge | (Optional) To help measure the fold and stitch lines |
Steps:
1. Prepare the fabric: Clean and press the fabric to remove any creases.
2. Fold and crease the hem: Fold up the bottom of the fabric to the desired length and press the crease.
3. Fold again and press: Fold the fabric up once more, enclosing the raw edge inside, and press again.
4. Stitch the blind hem: Set your sewing machine to a zigzag or blind hem stitch and adjust the stitch width and length according to the fabric thickness. Stitch along the folded edge, catching just the upper layer of fabric.
5. Trim the excess fabric: Trim the excess fabric close to the stitching line on the wrong side of the fabric.
6. Press the hem: Press the hem to flatten it and set the stitches.
7. Admire your work: Enjoy the professionally finished hemline with invisible stitches!
Altering a Dress with a Train
Altering a dress with a train can be a more complex task, but it can be done with the right tools and techniques. Here are the steps involved in shortening a dress with a train:
1. Gather Your Materials
You will need the following materials to shorten a dress with a train:
- Sewing machine
- Thread
- Fabric scissors
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Chalk or fabric marker
- Iron and ironing board
2. Measure the Train
Measure the length of the train from the waistline to the hem. This will tell you how much fabric you need to remove.
3. Mark the Hem
Mark the new hemline on the train using chalk or a fabric marker. Make sure the mark is parallel to the existing hem.
4. Cut the Train
Cut the train along the marked hemline. Be careful not to cut too much fabric.
5. Finish the Hem
Finish the hem using your preferred method, such as a rolled hem, a serged hem, or a blind hem.
6. Press the Hem
Press the hem to set it in place.
7. Reattach the Train
Reattach the train to the dress at the waistline. Make sure the stitches are secure.
8. Press the Dress
Press the dress to set the stitches and give it a finished look.
9. Additional Tips for Altering a Dress with a Train
Here are some additional tips for altering a dress with a train:
- If the train is very long, you may need to remove it from the dress in order to shorten it. To do this, carefully unpick the stitches at the waistline and remove the train.
- If the train is made of a delicate fabric, you may need to use a special needle and thread to avoid damaging the fabric.
- Be sure to test the fit of the dress after you have shortened the train. You may need to make additional adjustments to the hem or the waistline.
| Tip | Description |
|---|---|
| Use a sharp needle and thread | This will help to prevent snagging the fabric and creating holes. |
| Stitch slowly and evenly | This will help to create a neat and professional-looking hem. |
| Press the hem as you go | This will help to set the stitches and give the hem a finished look. |
Tips for a Seamless Hem
1. Pin and Try On
Pin the desired hem length along the inside of the dress. Try it on to ensure it’s the perfect length while standing, sitting, and walking.
2. Use a Measuring Tape
Measure the excess fabric from the pinned hem to determine the amount of material to remove.
3. Mark the Excess Fabric
Mark the excess fabric with a fabric pen or chalk.
4. Cut the Excess Fabric
Cut the excess fabric along the marked line.
5. Fold and Press the Hem
Fold the hem up the desired width and press it with an iron.
6. Pin the Hem
Pin the hem in place, ensuring it’s even and secure.
7. Machine-Sew the Hem
Set your sewing machine to a short stitch length and sew the hem in place, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
8. Handstitch the Corners
For added reinforcement, handstitch the corners of the hem using a blind stitch.
9. Press the Finished Hem
Press the finished hem to flatten the seams and enhance the overall appearance.
10. Advanced Techniques for a Professional-Grade Hem
If desired, consider the following advanced techniques for an even more seamless hem:
| Technique | Description |
|---|---|
| Blind Hem | A nearly invisible hem created by hand-stitching along the original fold line. |
| Overlock Stitch | A zigzag stitch that prevents the fabric from fraying and creates a secure hem. |
| Double-Sided Tape | Adhesive tape that helps keep the hem in place while sewing, ensuring a smooth finish. |
| Tailor’s Chalk | A fabric-safe marking tool that washes out easily, leaving no visible residue. |
| Seamstress Needles | Narrow, sharp needles that glide through fabric easily, reducing snags and puckers. |
